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Breweries — it’s beer and it’s brewed here
Cooper’s Vintage Ale shows the benefits of getting old gracefully…
Cooper’s are the third biggest brewery in Australia, but they couldn’t give a xxxx about their competitors’ predilection for ice-cold lager. Even though they do produce a zingy and zesty lager, Cooper’s are best known for a Sparkling Ale that is brash and breezy, hopped and happy in the glass, an Australian ale that has become world-famous. Other beers in the family brewery’s portfolio include a roasty-toasty stout that competes with Guinness in Australia bars, a Pale Ale, a Mild and a sumptuous and luxurious Vintage Ale — the latter beer being the reason why a small but anticipatory group of journalists and other interested parties could be found in mid October in the bar of the cavernous Covent Garden bar, the Porterhouse.
This was the first vertical tasting of all the Vintage Ales to be conducted in the UK, led by beer writer Roger Protz with an introduction from the brewery’s Executive Director Glenn Cooper. The first Vintage was brewed for 1999, said Cooper, ‘I wanted to do something special, so the brewers made a quickie which proved to be a massive success in Australia and Vintage was born. The brewers then took ownership of it and they come up with variations on a theme every year — brewing this involves a lot of passion. We were the first in Australia to have a Vintage, the others just copied us.’
A limited amount of the Ale is released in keg, but this is very much a bottled beer with 40,000 cases of 24 bottles produced every year; 5000 cases are sent overseas. The brewery wants to make a beer that is drinkable straightaway but also can be put away by those who want to see how it develops with time. Vintage Ale used to be released in October/November, which seems to make a lot of sense to us in the UK, until you realise that it is summer over there then. Nowadays, it sees the late of day in April, just as the days are getting colder. Even though Aussie beers are served cold, Vintage, according to the brewery, is best at 10?c. ‘Too cold,’ says Glenn Cooper, ‘and it would lose the flavour.’
ATJ’s tasting notes
Pale malt and crystal is used in the mash tun throughout, while Pride of Ringwood hops are a constant in the boil, though other varieties are added. Cane sugar is also used — this is normal for all Cooper’s beer and a traditional brewing ingredient in Australia. There were no 2001, 2003 and 2005 vintages for various reasons.
Cooper’s Vintage Ale 1999, 7.1%
Reddish-copper in colour, it is cloudy in the glass. The nose is rich fruitcake, raisins, orange marmalade, warming alcohol and boiled sweets; a complex palate includes rich Bakewell tart, almonds, a dessert wine such as an orange Muscat. The finish is bittersweet and fruity. This is a rich and stately ale, which could be started to show its age.
Cooper’s Vintage Ale 2000, 7.4%
Saaz joins Pride of Ringwood in the copper. The colour is caramel brown; it is not as deep a reddish tint as the first beer. The nose is cherry, peachy and slightly peppery. There’s a big mouth feel, more sprightly conditioning on the palate and an almost gueuze-like orange fruitiness. Once again it’s a bittersweet fruity finish.
Cooper’s Vintage 2002, 7.4/7.5%
Pride of Ringwood plus Hersbrucker. The colour is orange-brown, deeper in colour than the last. The nose is perfumy, and joined by boiled sweets and a slight hint of woodiness. Toffee, caramel, flowery hints and sweet Muscat dessert wine all vie for attention on the palate, while the finish is dry and slightly sweet.
Cooper’s Vintage Ale 2004, 7.5%
Pride of Ringwood plus Hersbrucker, Saaz and Cascade. This light-chestnut red coloured ale is the most bitterest we have had. The nose is cherry, hop resins and the faint call of citrus orange. The palate stings with its bitterness, though balance is restored with fruit, hop resins and rich fruit jelly. The finish is dry and hoppy bitter.
Cooper’s Vintage Ale, 2006, 7.6%
Pride of Ringwood and Saaz, while the yeast strain they use for Sparkling Ale is used. They should give banana hints to the flavour. According the Glenn Cooper, the yeast they used before was in the ‘reserves’. The beer is dark gold in colour, and is blessed with a very perfumey aroma that has hop resins, orange fruit and banana in its trail. The palate is a luscious little swine with banana and bitter orange, while the bitterness count seems higher than before. It is very rich and fruity with a stinging bitter finish.
Cooper’s Vintage Ale, 2007, 7.8%
Pride of Ringwood and Saaz. This is reddish-brown in colour with a muted bubblegum, bananas, and strawberry ice cream character on the nose. The palate features hop resins, a tingly fruitiness and excellent zingy condition. The finish is bittersweet. This felt very young and would improve with age.
For more details on Cooper’s beers go to www.coopers.uk.net
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